Plutonic Rainbows

Christopher Nolan's Odyssey opens on Friday, and as I write this on Wednesday lunchtime there is not a single published review of it anywhere. I checked, because the gap seemed worth checking. Rotten Tomatoes has counted one critic review and no percentage, and its audience meter reads zero verified ratings. The full review embargo lifts at nine this morning in California, which is five o'clock this afternoon here. Everything written about this film so far has been a tweet.

That gap is engineered. Universal skipped the influencer screenings most studios now use to front-run their own reviews, a decision The Hollywood Reporter broke and working critics were audibly pleased about. Critics saw the film after the London premiere on 6 July, and the social embargo let them post immediately, in tweet-length, with one condition: no score that would feed the Tomatometer. Paul Tassi put the caveat plainly in Forbes while rounding up the raves, noting that early reviews can often be more positive than final ones.

The raves are real and they are close to unanimous, which is the part worth pausing on. Fandango's Erik Davis called it a crowning cinematic achievement, and IndieWire's Anne Thompson called it the best picture contender to beat. Unanimity nine days out isn't a verdict, though. It's a sample, drawn from people who were flown to a premiere and handed 280 characters, and 280 characters has nowhere to put the word but.

The teaser tells you what to value before you've seen a frame: a marble head in embers, and above the title, set in the same cold blue as the director's credit and given equal billing, the line SHOT ENTIRELY WITH IMAX FILM CAMERAS. The negative is the star. That's the pitch, and it happens to be the one claim a tweet can carry intact, because a format is a fact you can state on the way out of the cinema. Whether 2 hours and 52 minutes of it holds is not a fact. It's a judgement, and it takes the length of the film to earn.

Which is where the dissent lives. Not in the outrage, in the qualifiers. IndieWire's chief critic David Ehrlich found the IMAX obviously immense but the film "too clunky to be S-tier Nolan", allowing that the last act rewards the journey. Out-of-theatre reactions have muttered that the first half drags. That is close to the whole of it, and the thinness is the tell: a reservation is the first thing to go when you're writing to a character limit on the way out of a premiere.

The louder argument never got near any of that. It has run for months on casting, on Lupita Nyong'o as Helen, on Elliot Page as Sinon, on a script that says daddy instead of father. Nolan told The Telegraph it comes with the territory, and that these conversations that happen before people see the film are always irrelevant, because no one having them knows what the film actually is yet. He's right, and he should look at where his own sentence lands. It doesn't distinguish between the people who have spent nine days calling his casting a political act and the people who have spent nine days calling the film a masterpiece. Both are describing something they haven't sat through. The difference is that only one group is guessing in his favour, which is why only one group is ever going to hear from him about it.

A British house put an American phone number in Vogue, and that one line of small type gives away where Jaeger was aimed at the start of the 1990s. For the Jaeger store nearest you, call 1-800-7-Jaeger. The February 1992 issue ran the pitch across a double page, and the message underneath the clothes was geographic before it was anything else. The future was west, across the Atlantic, in a country that had never particularly thought about the brand.

The trouble is that going west solved none of Jaeger's actual problems. By the early nineties the house was losing its grip at home for reasons that had nothing to do with America. Its customers were ageing with it, and no younger British woman was stepping in to replace them. The European labels that had poured into London through the 1980s looked sharper and more current: Escada was selling loud, confident colour and Max Mara owned the good coat. Against that, Jaeger's careful good behaviour read less like restraint and more like an empty chair. A house in that position needs to win back the young on its own ground. Jaeger went looking for new customers three thousand miles away instead.

You can see the instinct in a cream silk blouse with shoulders still padded into the previous decade, worn beside a gingham jacket over white shorts, white gloves, a braided belt, the red Jaeger wordmark and that toll-free number sitting quietly in the corner. It is handsome and expensive and entirely sure of itself. It is also selling the single quality that travels worst: Englishness as good manners, a tidy, correct, nothing-out-of-place idea of how a woman is supposed to look.

That is why America was the wrong front. The niche Jaeger was pitching, tasteful tailored separates for a professional woman, was already owned in the United States, and owned without mercy. Ralph Lauren had built an empire on exactly that fantasy of inherited good taste. Anne Klein, Liz Claiborne and Calvin Klein covered the rest of the price ladder with clothes that were native, cheaper, and stocked in every department store in the country. Jaeger arrived offering correctness to the one market that manufactured correctness by the container-load. Whatever an American Vogue reader wanted from a tailored jacket, she did not need a number in London to get it.

Every page bought in American Vogue and every concession opened in a US store was money and attention not spent on the thing that was actually broken. The clearest verdict on the strategy came from Jaeger's own recovery a few years later, and it owed nothing to America. Design director Jeanette Todd pulled the line forward, and by 1996 the house had a British Fashion Award to show for it, its first real fashion credibility in years. The lever was product, and it was at home. No one handed Jaeger that award for the concessions it had opened three thousand miles away.

I want to be fair, because heritage-to-America is a real strategy and plenty of British names have run it well. Burberry did it a decade later and turned a raincoat maker into a global luxury brand. That worked because Burberry led with a product the world could name, the check and the trench, and rebuilt the image around them. Jaeger led with a mood. Good taste is not a hook. It is the ambient weather of the whole market you are trying to walk into, and it is free.

The clothes themselves were never really the problem, and I have argued elsewhere that Jaeger's deeper curse was aesthetic, that garments built to look timeless are the ones that date hardest of all. The strategy was a second mistake stacked on the first: carrying a very English idea of correct dress, one the home market was already cooling on, to a country that made its own version in bulk and sold it for less. Jaeger aimed a toll-free number at the wrong side of the Atlantic while the customers it needed were the ones already drifting off at home.

Giorgio Armani spent the spring of 1989 selling almost nothing. The women's campaign that ran that season, photographed by Aldo Fallai, has no location, no props, no story to stage. A young woman stands against a blown-out pale ground, a length of grey chiffon draped and knotted over one shoulder, her hair pinned up and coming loose at the edges. Black and white, printed under the plain capitals of the house name and two store addresses, Madison Avenue and Rodeo Drive. That is the entire advertisement, and it was one of the most self-assured things a fashion house was putting in magazines at the time.

Fallai had been Armani's eyes since the mid-1970s, when the two met in Milan and worked out a way of photographing clothes that treated them as evidence of a life rather than objects on a rail. He shot in black and white on purpose, calling it a way of "allowing a narrative abstraction, where telling the story is more important" than any faithful record of a fabric. Stripped of colour, a garment stops being a swatch you could match in a shop and becomes atmosphere, something the woman is standing inside rather than wearing. His pictures are portraits before they are advertisements, built around the character and the small imperfections of the person in the clothes, and he kept away from the trendy famous faces that would have pulled attention onto themselves. That instinct is most of the reason these campaigns still hold up.

By 1989 Armani had nothing left to prove. American Gigolo had put Richard Gere in his soft, unstructured tailoring back in 1980 and taught a generation of men what a jacket could feel like without a rigid shoulder holding it up; two years later he was on the cover of Time, only the second fashion designer to get there after Christian Dior. The women's wear made the quieter version of the same case, trading the armored power suit for fluid fabric and an easier line, dressing the woman who had just reached the boardroom and had no need to shout about it. By the end of the decade the whole Made in Italy phenomenon had a face, and most of the time it was his.

Which is what makes the casting here worth sitting with. The model is Lucie de la Falaise, and in 1989 that name meant almost nothing to the public. In the picture she stands half-turned, hair loosely up, chiffon knotted at one shoulder and falling loose across a pale blouse, looking back at the lens with a composure that reads much older than the fifteen or sixteen she actually was. What she had instead of fame was lineage. Her grandmother, Maxime de la Falaise, had modelled Schiaparelli in the 1950s and been called by Cecil Beaton the only truly chic Englishwoman. Her aunt was Loulou de la Falaise, Yves Saint Laurent's muse for the better part of thirty years. Lucie herself had grown up on a Welsh sheep farm without a television, and been discovered when André Leon Talley came to profile the family and could not stop looking at her.

That is exactly the face Fallai and Armani reached for: not a monument, not a supermodel hardening into her own logo, but someone with particular features and an air of inherited ease, taste worn so lightly it looked like an accident of birth. Calvin Klein was following the same instinct across the Atlantic that year, reaching past the era's monuments for a face that would not pull focus off the mood. The chiffon does the work the girl does. It reads as luxury without naming a price, and the drape was house vocabulary by then; a year earlier Armani had sent nearly the same idea down the runway, silk falling across the body like something half-borrowed from antiquity.

The timing is the sharpest part. This campaign came before Saint Laurent claimed her. She walked her first YSL couture show in January 1990, closed it in a pink bridal gown, and spent the next four years as the house's bride and the face of its Paris perfume; by 1992 a Steven Meisel shoot and a pixie cut had renamed her the gamine of the moment and folded her into the waif wave Kate Moss was about to lead. Armani got her while she was still a well-bred teenager doing European fashion work, and that stretch sits oddly outside her official story, which prefers to begin at the Saint Laurent runway.

None of this looked radical in 1989, which was the point. The Armani advertising had become its own institution by then, a black-and-white register so consistent across billboards and magazine pages that you could name it before you read the logo. What looks unusual now is how little the pictures have dated, and the house has leaned into that. In 2023 it gave the whole partnership a retrospective, Aldo Fallai per Giorgio Armani, 1977 to 2021, roughly 250 images hung across two floors of the Armani/Silos in Milan without a caption in sight. Armani said he was struck by the power the shots still emanate. Two years later the International Center of Photography handed Fallai a special recognition award for work most people had only ever read as advertising.

Lucie is somewhere in those 250 frames, still a teenager and entirely unbothered, a scarf knotted at her shoulder, looking as though the whole apparatus of Milan had been arranged for her convenience. A year later the fame she had no part in asking for arrived, and it never quite remembered where it found her.

This Fall 1989 advertisement looks, at first glance, like evidence of a forgotten Escada experiment. The gold script says “just looking,” the Escada name sits beneath it, and the clothes have all the house signatures: hard shoulders, gold hardware and a black-and-white pattern busy enough to make restraint seem faintly rude. I thought Just Looking might have been a softer retail format, devised to make Escada less intimidating during its frantic international expansion. The company had floated in 1986 and was opening stores in Europe and America from 1987, so the timing made sense. Escada's own advertising that season gave the house name the dominant type. The evidence points somewhere else.

The picture itself encourages the confusion. It isn't a photograph of a shop front or an invitation to visit a new kind of salon. It is a conventional fashion advertisement, with the model occupying nearly the full height of the page and the retailer's practical details pushed into the black margin. Just Looking's identity is written like a signature; Escada's arrives as a product stamp. The hierarchy is commercial rather than corporate.

Just Looking was an independent boutique in Laguna Beach, California. The small print in the advertisement gives the location and the telephone number, 714/494-8208. The shop's current visitor listing still carries the same 494-8208 number and names Heshmat Shirazi as its owner. It describes a local business selling clothing from designers around the world, not a former branch of a German fashion group.

The dates make the Escada theory harder to sustain. In official Laguna Beach planning minutes from 2017, Efy Shirazi identified herself as Just Looking's original owner, while one customer said she had shopped there for 42 years. That places the boutique around 1975, before Margaretha and Wolfgang Ley founded Escada. A 1991 Los Angeles Times report is clearer still: Behjat Shirazi, manager of Just Looking in Laguna Beach, discussed buying at the Los Angeles design mart and said the store carried mostly European lines. Escada was one of those lines, not the landlord.

The mistake is easy to make because the advertisement lets both identities occupy the same page. Just Looking gets the flourish and the phone number; Escada supplies the clothes, the season and the authority. This was how a strong independent boutique advertised before every label controlled its own digital storefront. The retailer's name could be as prominent as the maker's, because customers had a relationship with the shop as well as with the clothes.

The quieter history belongs to the Shirazi family, who built a Laguna Beach boutique durable enough to outlive the decade, the area code and Escada's boom. “Just looking” probably did soften the threshold of a high-end shop, since the phrase is what wary customers say when a salesperson approaches. But that charm belonged to the retailer itself. In 1989, the name above the door was strong enough to share a page with Escada and keep the larger type.

The lost world of late 80s and early 90s Escada, the era of Margaretha Ley, glossy boutiques, power suits, and those highly polished advertising campaigns​​​​​​​​​​ that have become almost hauntological relics of a vanished luxury culture.

Included Fable 5 access on paid plans ends tonight, July 12, at 11:59 Pacific. The model doesn't vanish then, it just moves behind the meter, charged at ten dollars per million input tokens and fifty out, exactly twice what Opus 4.8 costs. So the question worth asking isn't whether Fable survives. It's whether OpenAI shipping GPT-5.6 to the public on July 9 changes what Anthropic does next.

My guess is no. The pressure everyone expects from a cheaper public rival lands on Sonnet and the next Opus, the models Anthropic sells at volume. Fable was never in that price fight, and a cheaper GPT-5.6 won't drop it into one now. It costs twice Opus for a reason.

The force that actually reshaped Fable this summer wasn't OpenAI at all. The US government switched the model off in June, and gated GPT-5.6 to about twenty approved partners when it first shipped, weeks before its public launch. Both labs spent the summer negotiating with the same office. Competition wasn't the variable. The regulator was.

So expect the dull outcome. Fable stays where it landed when it came back, a metered premium tier priced like the halo it is, with no reason to cut it and no path back into the plans. GPT-5.6 going public is a real event. It just isn't Fable's.

A sample vial is in the post, and until it lands I only have other people's noses to go on. Gibeon is the seventeenth Xerjoff Shooting Stars perfume, out since late January, and every coffret ships with a certified chip of the meteorite it's named for, iron that fell on the Namibian desert.

The reviews line up unusually well. Neroli and soft Ceylon cinnamon on top, Tuscan orris doing the heavy lifting in the heart, rose beside it, a camphoraceous patchouli a few people swear is louder than the brand admits, then vanilla and tonka underneath. Almost everyone reaches for the same word, powdery, and right after it, vintage, as though this were a Guerlain that got made in 2026.

The presentation leans hard into the concept, gold glass cradled in dark rock against a starfield, a real meteorite fragment tucked in the box.

That's a lot of ceremony for a soft, close-wearing floral, and powdery orris can go either way, quiet luxury or a grandmother's compact. "Vintage-elegant" sometimes just means "smells like something I already own," which puts it at the opposite pole from the spiced-amber powerhouses I usually reach for. The performance, at least, is less contested: twelve hours, a two-foot cloud, stronger on a shirt than skin. I'll know soon enough.

In November 1991, Estée Lauder ran a full-page advertisement in American Vogue that broke the house's usual formula. Instead of a lone woman gazing past the camera, the frame held two people in profile, foreheads almost touching, a man's hand pushed into a woman's hair. Across the bottom, in gold Art Deco capitals, sat one word: Spellbound. The tagline promised "the intense magic of falling in love," and for once the picture tried to show the falling rather than the woman doing it alone.

Lauder in 1991 was not a company that needed to gamble. By some counts it held close to half of the American prestige cosmetics market, a dominance no rival came close to matching. Leonard Lauder, Estée's older son, was president and chief executive, and he ran the fragrance side on a theory he liked to state plainly: "Our fragrance advertising sold romance and prestige. You can't sell romance with an anti-wrinkle cream." Scent, in his telling, was the thing that pulled a woman into the whole Estée Lauder world and kept her buying everything else in it. A year earlier he had hired Robin Burns to run the American business, poaching her from Calvin Klein, where she had grown the cosmetics arm from six million dollars to two hundred million on the back of Obsession and Eternity. She knew exactly how to sell a bottle as if it were a narcotic.

Spellbound arrived on a schedule. Beautiful had launched in 1985 as a bridal bouquet, Knowing in 1988 as a mossy chypre, and Spellbound completed a kind of trilogy, each release a notch more nocturnal than the last. The house was building fragrances the way a studio builds a franchise, and by the early nineties it had the distribution and the trained counter staff to make almost any launch land. What it wanted from Spellbound was heat.

The campaign was willing to be unusually literal about that. You can see it in that near-kiss between the male model Nick Constantino and Julie Anderson, the two of them pressed close in grainy black and white, less a perfume ad than a film still from the second before a kiss. The following year the house swapped Anderson out and put Paulina Porizkova in the woman's place, the Czech supermodel who had been a face of the brand since 1988. Constantino stayed. The romance survived a change of leading lady.

The juice inside the gold bottle earned the drama. Spellbound is an amber-spicy oriental, and it wears like Beautiful after dark: the same floral bones dragged down into warm amber and clove, with a green, almost cold hit of lily of the valley sitting up top. It was loud. It crossed a room and hung there for hours, which in 1991 was the point rather than the problem.

It sold well, and then something more interesting happened to it. A later reformulation thinned the original out, and the people who had loved the first version turned into a small, stubborn resistance, hoarding vintage bottles and warning each other off the new one. That reaction is usually the mark of a fragrance that meant something to somebody. Estée Lauder still sells Spellbound today, though it was pointedly left out of the 2024 Legacy Collection that brought back Azurée, Knowing, White Linen and two others under Frédéric Malle's supervision. The scents chosen for that revival were the museum pieces; Spellbound, apparently, sits a rung below.

As for influence, I would be careful. Spellbound didn't start a trend so much as end one. The big spicy orientals had ruled the late eighties, from Opium to Obsession to Coco, and within three years of Spellbound's launch the market lurched hard the other way, toward the clean nothing of CK One and the aquatics that trailed it. Spellbound reads now like one of the last confident sentences in a language that was about to fall out of use, a powerhouse turning up just as powerhouses stopped being wanted. Its real legacy is smaller and more durable than a trend: a reference point perfume people still reach for when they need to describe what warm, spiced amber is supposed to smell like.

Some labels from the early nineties left catalogs, licensing fights, and a Wikipedia page. Request Jeans left mostly this: a black-and-white campaign shot in 1991, a wordmark set in orange serif, and a founding date logged in a corporate database. That date is 1987, and the company did the unglamorous work of wholesaling men's and boys' apparel to department stores. That's about all the record agrees on.

The picture is more ambitious than the paperwork. A sheer black mesh top is pulled over bare skin. The hair is teased enormous and lit from behind. The model holds her hands crossed at her mouth, as if she's deciding whether to speak, and the whole thing reads like a fragrance ad rather than something folded on a table at a suburban mall. I can't tell you who shot it or who she is, and neither can anyone else. She's one more face from a campaign nobody thought to caption. The styling is pure 1991: high-waisted denim, a top you can see straight through, and lighting lifted from the Herb Ritts school of expensive monochrome. It's the soft, backlit look Tom Ford would strip out of fashion imagery within a few years.

Request lived in the crowded middle of the denim market, under Calvin Klein and Guess, above the anonymous store five-pocket. That middle was huge back then, and it's exactly where brands go to be forgotten. Nobody writes the history of the label your cousin actually wore. The premium names got the museum retrospectives and the reissues; the workaday ones got liquidated, relaunched under new owners, or quietly dropped.

Request managed, at least once, to spend like it belonged higher up the ladder. The jeans are almost incidental in its own ad. You buy the mood, the hair, the hush of that raised hand, and somewhere down near the hem, the denim.

In this 1992 advertisement, Yasmeen Ghauri reclines in a cream belted suit while the Erreuno logo runs across the bottom like bent chrome tubing. The clothes are expensive but not spectacular: soft shoulders, a broad printed collar, enough fabric to make ease look deliberate. It is a good image for a house that prospered without developing an equally durable public identity.

Ghauri gives the picture more voltage than the garment asks for. By 1992 a recognisable model could lend an unfamiliar label some of her own visibility. The setting offers sun, painted garden furniture and the suggestion of somewhere expensive. No Italian monument, no obvious narrative. Erreuno lets the atmosphere and the clothes remain pleasantly unresolved.

Ermanno and Graziella Ronchi founded Erreuno in Milan around 1970 or 1971. The sources disagree by a year. The name joined the Italian pronunciation of R, erre, to uno: Ronchi's first venture. According to the fashion reference MAM-e, the business began in a basement, with Ermanno selling and Graziella designing, then grew by visiting provincial boutiques rather than waiting for Milan to notice.

The decisive move was to treat the label as a meeting point between factory, fabric, and outside designer. Gianmarco Venturi worked on its ready-to-wear in the 1970s. Giorgio Armani designed for Erreuno from 1980 to 1988, when his own name was already becoming shorthand for relaxed authority. A contemporary Washington Post report described buyers rising to applaud Erreuno's 1982 collection of blousons and unexpected gold, then identified Armani as its power broker. Erreuno gave that language another production platform: tailoring softened until a woman could move inside it.

Graziella's role mattered because she translated runway ideas back into usable clothes. That practicality remained after Armani left. The house developed its own fabrics, mixed checks and stripes, and stayed between his restraint and the more theatrical Milan of Versace. Ghauri's suit belongs to that middle ground. The robe-like closure is relaxed, but the patterned collar keeps it from disappearing into beige. It resembles the other Armani that fashion memory often edits out: fluid rather than corporate.

Michael Kors designed Erreuno J, introduced to the American market in 1990, another revealing hire. The house expanded into menswear, jeans, accessories, golf and fragrance, exporting almost half its production at one point. Yet breadth did not produce a symbol comparable to an Armani jacket or a Versace Medusa. A Politecnico di Milano study describes Erreuno as internationally recognised in the 1980s and 1990s, then inactive for more than twelve years before an archive-led relaunch.

Erreuno belongs to the industrial history of Made in Italy more than its hall of fame. Designers supplied recognisable handwriting; manufacturers, textile researchers and sales networks turned it into a business. The Ronchis built a house sturdy enough to carry Armani, Venturi and Kors, yet flexible enough that each could leave traces. The label faded. The system it represented became the Italian fashion industry.