I've been eager to explore Francis Kurkdjian's latest addition to La Collection Privée, which takes its inspiration from one of Dior's most iconic fashion pieces: the Saddle bag, originally designed by John Galliano in the early 2000s. What strikes me immediately is how Cuir Saddle deliberately subverts my expectations of what a leather fragrance should be. Rather than pursuing the heavy, smoky, tar-like qualities that define traditional leather compositions, Kurkdjian has softened and relaxed the structure into something closer to supple suede. I find the result fascinating — it blends conventional pyrogenated leather notes with a musky, creamy floral cloud and modern ambered woods, creating a scent that feels both tenacious and unexpectedly light, sensual yet approachable.

I should note this isn't Dior's first attempt at capturing the essence of fine leather goods in a bottle — I remember François Demachy's discontinued Cuir Cannage from 2014, which explored similar territory. But Cuir Saddle feels to me like a more refined evolution, one that acknowledges the codes of classic leather perfumery while steering them in a contemporary direction. Available as an Eau de Parfum starting at $220, it arrives in the signature cylindrical Collection Privée flacon accompanied by an elegant leather sheath that echoes the design language of its namesake bag. For those of us who find traditional leather fragrances too assertive, this softer interpretation might be precisely what I've been missing from the genre.