I think I have decided on my next fragrance purchases.
Tom Ford Soleil Brulant - This is a divisive but captivating entry in the Private Blend line. Soleil Brulant takes the solar DNA of Soleil Blanc and gives it a smoldering twist. Users often describe it as a clash of hot desert sun and syrupy resin: bright citrus, amber, honey, and leather mingle with smoky oud in a rather bold way. Some find it decadent and sensual, while others feel the sweetness and smokiness fight for dominance. Projection and longevity are generally strong. It’s a fragrance that commands attention — definitely not for the faint of heart.
Bois Talisman is part of Dior’s new lineup, and while not as widely known yet, early reviews suggest it’s a sophisticated woody oriental with a luxe, polished finish. There’s a familiar Maison Christian Dior elegance here — cedar and sandalwood interplay with a smooth, almost incense-like drydown. It’s often praised for being understated, refined, and incredibly wearable, with a balance of warmth and lightness. A safe bet for those who appreciate versatile woods with modern restraint.
Oud Ispahan Esprit de Parfum - This is the richer, more concentrated sibling of the beloved Oud Ispahan. Esprit elevates the original’s opulence with deeper, more resinous facets. The rose-oud combo remains central, but with even denser layers of labdanum, smoke, and spice. Fans of the original often regard this version as the ultimate expression — more serious, more luxurious, and longer-lasting. It’s less airy, more meditative, and designed to impress with regal intensity. Some suggest it’s closer in spirit to The Night or Dawn by Frederic Malle.
Update: Soleil Brulant is a complete no-go for me. After spending time with it, I’ve come to the conclusion that it bears an uncanny resemblance to Maison Francis Kurkdjian’s Absolue Pour le Soir. Unfortunately, that means it also shares the same challenging facets that made me dislike APLS in the first place — most notably, that harsh, almost animalic “straw” note that overwhelms the composition. It’s pungent, unrefined, and lingers in a way that I find deeply off-putting. I had hoped for something opulent and radiant, but instead, it veers into territory that feels murky and unpleasant on my skin. Disappointing, especially given the price point.